Kim Kardashian debuts Dolce & Gabbana collection and other Milan Fashion Week highlights

by decwells
Kim Kardashian debuts Dolce & Gabbana collection and other Milan Fashion Week highlights


Kim Kardashian took Milan by storm on Saturday, curating a new collection for Dolce & Gabbana that took inspiration from 20 years of archive looks.

It was a day of debuts at Milan Fashion Week, including Maximilian Davis, a 27-year-old British designer with Afro-Caribbean roots, at the creative helm of Salvatore Ferragamo and Filipino-American designer Rhuigi Villasenor at Bally, while the brand return to the runway. for the first time in 20 years.

Here are some of the highlights.

Kim Kardashian for Dolce & Gabbana

Kim Kardashian’s love for Dolce & Gabbana goes back a long way, and the love shown in her curation of their latest collection, which drew on archive looks from 1987 to 2007.

She remembers growing up watching her mother dress in the designer brand for date nights with her stepfather, recalling “she always looked so smart and so strong”.

Even the family dogs were named Dolce and Gabbana. Gabbana was a black labrador, Dolce a tiny chihuahua.

“It is very close to reality,” Stefano Gabbana believed in a presentation for the new collection.

But no matter how hard she tried, even sending her mother, Kris Jenner, to help make her case, the designers refused to open their archives. “The past is the past,” explained Domenico Dolce. “We are trying to continue with the new generation.”

That is, until Kardashian proved she had the real stuff.

When Kourtney Kardashian married Travis Barker in Italy in May of this year, social media was abuzz with the vintage Dolce & Gabbana dresses she and her sisters wore. They were all from Kim Kardashian’s private collection, which she acquired with the help of a book of more than 100 desired Dolce & Gabbana looks that she and her stylist compiled years before.

Dolce said the wedding photos prompted them to dig into the archives, and he approached Kardashian about the project.

“We were afraid that the vintage dresses would look old. Instead, they were still contemporary,” Dolce said.

And so the new spring/summer 2023 collection was born, with the designers choosing looks from the past that they loved, many with memories of working with models like Linda Evangelista and Monica Bellucci. Kardashian compiled from there.

“After all these years, this is all the stuff we’ll be wearing today,” Kardashian said. “As a designer, I would just think it’s so cool to see everyone trying to emulate the look. And why not a full collection, obviously with some new pieces in it, but just reimagined in a way that we would wear today, which is so similar to how it was shot and worn back then.”

Dolce and Gabbana presented their spring/summer 2023 collection against the backdrop of a film showing Kardashian, styled as a starlet, sensually eating a plate of pasta.

Kardashian’s curation showed her full embrace of Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian roots.

Underwear strongly inspired the collection. There were corsets, built-in bras and bodysuits, using all the designer’s best tricks, from sturdy legs for structural elements, to pretty lace and eye-catching crystals. They were worn with stockings and long gloves, or under beautiful wraps.

Kardashian stuck to a mostly neutral palette: black, gray and beige, with a bit of burgundy. And she drew the line at prints, rejecting the brand’s fruits and flowers altogether.

But the reality TV and social media star went all out. “I would say the boys brought out the leopard in me,” Kardashian said. “I think you will see that for me color is the crystals.”

The collection was designed with women of all ages and shapes in mind, Kardashian said, with the goal of simplifying designs to make some of the more embellished pieces feel less intimidating.

“If you simplify it, more people can feel confident wearing it. And I think we really achieved that in the show,” she said.

Kardashian’s mother, three of her four children and sister Khloe sat in the front row. Proud mum Kris Jenner filmed the entire show on her phone.

Jil Sander’s serenity

Tassels and feathers dominated the runway at the Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2023 show during Milan Fashion Week on September 24, 2022 in Italy.  Getty

Jil Sander created an island of calm in Milan’s chaotic fashion week, filling a temporary showroom in a distant field with a bunch of wildflowers and grasses, alongside soothing pastels and forgiving silhouettes.

The collection lends itself to easy layering and defies all gender stereotypes. Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier continued to dabble in embellishments, adding sequins, feathers and metallic accents to the brand’s minimalist silhouette.

Sleeveless suits worked across generations, and men wore long pastel kilts with button-down shirts. Knitwork was distressed, with rough edges and slits, in both tops and dresses. The designers chose a single print, with faint highlights.

Models carried umbrellas to protect the look from the seasonal rainfall – inconvenient for an outdoor show, but welcome in Italy after months of drought.

Salvatore Ferragamo’s New Dawn

Strong silhouettes and simple elements at Salvatore Ferragamo's spring/summer 2023 show.  Getty

Maximilian Davis created a vermilion red backdrop for his Salvatore Ferragamo debut in the courtyard of a 17th-century Baroque and Neoclassical palace—all the better to highlight the fashion house’s new direction.

The British designer worked in strong silhouettes and simple elements, such as tank tops and leggings, or full-body suits, all the better to highlight the bag of the season, and oversized cut-out bags in highly polished leather with a canvas interior. Dresses were slinky in solid colors or flowing chiffon in degraded prints; a red pants and skin tight top combination with crystals. Strappy sandals have a distinctive circular heel.

The masculine silhouette was challenged with an off-shoulder, transparent ombre colored top, the colors a tribute to the Californian sunset. Davis tapped into Ferragamo’s leather heritage with boyish short leather shorts paired with a leather jacket. Any male divo can make a red-carpet entrance with a silver, sheer shoulder top that flows dramatically into a trailing scarf.

Models stepped across red sand that covered the entire courtyard, a reference to Ferragamo’s Hollywood origins near the Californian beaches, and Davis’ own Caribbean heritage.

The sea and the sand mean to him “a place where you can go and reflect, and feel one”, he said. “I wanted to show that perspective, but now through the Ferragamo lens.”

Supermodel Naomi Campbell turned out for the show.

Bally reloaded

Models parade slinky gold and mustard creations for Bally women's spring/summer 2023 show at Milan Fashion Week on September 24, 2022. AP Photo

Filipino-American designer Villasenor, best known for his American streetwear brand, is attempting to make a transition at the famous Swiss brand Bally, founded in 1851.

His debut collection paid homage to the brand’s heritage of quiet elegance while introducing an edge. A plunging V-neck swimsuit was worn with snakeskin boots, while a long beaded dress featured a waist-high slit and was casually paired with a denim top. For him, a fancy reptile leather jacket was worn with a mesh top and jeans, but there was also a navy double-breasted suit for more formal business occasions.

Villasenor said he was inspired by “the brand’s codes around art, graphic design, architecture and nature”.

Bottega Veneta’s tromp l’oeiel

Kate Moss in a classic plaid shirt and denim faux leather pants at the Bottega Veneta Women's Spring/Summer 2023 show.  AP photo

For the uninitiated, Kate Moss looked straight dressed on the Bottega Veneta runway, in a pair of loose jeans and a plaid shirt. But that’s the genius of designer Matthieu Blazy, who played over a trick from his first season, with leather pants that mimic the look of jeans.

Every piece in Blazy’s sophomore collection was strong: from the intarsia knits that had icy blues and reds vying for the starring role, to the leather shift dresses and jackets with unexpected folds, to the shredded leather skirts and dresses, and sheer dresses that featured velvety decorated are floral applications.

At Bottega Veneta, leather is king. Bags range from beautifully crafted fishing bags that fit neatly on the body, in either flat leather or a basket weave, to bucket bags worn over the shoulder.

Blazy teamed up with Italian architect and designer Gaetano Pesce on the sculptural resin runway and 400 unique chairs, some autographed, for guests at the show and destined for Design Miami.

Updated: 25 September 2022, 09:59



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